Friday, December 12, 2008

Most beautiful island ever.

So I told you we were in Phuket, right? Well we were. And the plan was to head up to Phang Nga to do some kayaking before heading on to Bangkok, but we ended up taking a little detour after learning about a wonderful place called Koh Yao Noi from a wonderful cafe owner who sensed our waning fascination with the Scandanavian holiday mecca that is Karon Beach, Phuket. I actually had a lovely time in Phuket: did some pretty great snorkeling, lazed on the beach without getting sunburned, dabbled in medical tourism (the ear doctor when she looked in my left ear: "oh wow"), and met some interesting people who weren't even close to backpackers. However....it was not what Sarah and I had envisioned when we were planning our beach time at the tail end of this trip. The cafe owner guy pointed us to Koh Yao Noi and suggested we make our way to Phang Nga from there, by boat instead of by bus.

Best suggestion ever. Where Phuket was completely overrun with sarong shops, overpriced bad western food, overpriced bad westernized thai food and concrete, Koh Yao Noi was quiet, cheap, almost deserted, friendly, and breathtakingly beautiful. This was the view from our bungalow. No joke.


I really am trying not to like cats. I really am....but bungalow owners had 4 cats that were some of the cutest creatures I have ever seen in my life. Ko Samet may have the happiest dogs on earth, but the happiest cats were definitely here. We were just going to stay for a day, but that turned into three. Whoops. The monkeys.....oh the monkeys. I need sound effects and hand gestures to talk about those, so I'll do it later. Annnnd here we are in Phang Nga Town with only five days until I leave for home and Sarah heads off to Egypt (five!).

Definitely excited to be home for awhile and can't wait to see you all. Love you!

Friday, December 5, 2008

Whew

After 30 hours of travelling, we finally arrived at the Little Mermaid Guesthouse in Phuket. Do any of you watch Lost? Do you remember the episode with the flashback to Jack in Phuket? I'm pretty sure they filmed it in some completely different place. There are many wondrous sites here, but they involve quite creatively obscene outfits more than picturesque beach bungalows. More on that in another post....I am so behind!

There's tons of stuff I didn't get to talk about in Lao, but rather than run through all of them, I'm just going to make myself a reminder list so I can remember later.

Ok Cambodia....We flew to Siem Reap from Vientiane on December 1st with the intention of staying 2 nights then leaving for Bangkok to catch our December 4th flight. However, the protests were still going strong, so we decided to linger in Cambodia for another day or so and take our time with the Angkor temples. We found our guesthouse, dumped our stuff, and then met Mr. Pidor, the guesthouse's unofficial tuk tuk driver. He was incredibly patient and knowledgeable and listened to all over our ideas for iteneraries without telling us how ridiculous they were and nodding and smiling when we yelled that we'd changed our mind and wanted to go with his idea. The temples were absolutely amazing. Just....amazing. Mr. Pidor picked us up at 4:45 each morning to go see the sunrise. The first morning he took us to a mountain temple where we'd gone to see the sunset (along with 100 other tourists) the night before. It was mildly terrifying and incredibly creepy making the 10 minute hike up to the temple by ourselves, in the dark, and with what we later learned were monkeys making strange noises in the trees around us. It was completely worth it though when we climbed the treacherous stairs to the top of the temple and could sit there in silence and sloooowly start to make out the outlines of the temple towers. We had the whole place to ourselves for about 15 minutes before 5 or 6 more people showed up to watch the sun rise with us.

The food in Cambodia was also amazing. Mr. Pidor always took us to breakfast and lunch spots that were reasonably priced and delicious. Psic chicken? I'd never heard of it, but it was killer. As was a sour soup with lime, chicken, and tamarind. Oh! And there was ice cream! The real deal and in a cafe with giant beds and pillows. I realize this experience was completely manufactured so that people like me would come spend money, but whatever. You manufacture some caramel cashewnut ice cream, and I'm there.

Mr. Pidor's "best friend" was conveniently a regular taxi driver, and agreed to drive us to the Cambodian border where we could catch the bus to Bangkok. We'd heard horror stories about this road and were braced for the worst, but it was completely fine. We rode for 3 hours past hundreds of bicycles carrying impossible amounts of cargo, and then walked the last 30 feet or so into Thailand along with a parade of men pulling carts of chickens, baskets, etc. From then on we were back to the land where we always feel like we're being a little bit taken advantage of :-P